So that was humbling…..
We went on a five-day reconnaissance trip to Ussat in Ariege in the South of France, mainly to check out the area for an extended trip next year, escape the bad weather, and hopefully enjoy some sunshine.
On the way out, we stopped off at Lyon to climb at Vertical Art climbing wall and used their sauna and shower. It was a fantastic wall with a massive area of high-quality modern/comp-style boulders. Despite being very fatigued from the driving, we climbed surprisingly well. Had a great couple of hours with some fantastic, friendly staff. Madeline professed her love for competition-style boulders, which is a massive disappointment that I can work into our schedule. Hopping into the car feeling revitalized, we set off for the last 4 hours of our drive. Arriving at our adorable Airbnb in the dark. The silhouettes of the surrounding mountains fuel our imagination and psyche for the following days.
The story of the first 2 days was of moisture. Wet. Rain. So overhangs. We drove 5 minutes to the car park after the necessary shopping, coffee, and quintessential pain au chocolate. Picking the easiest dry route on the crag, a steep 7b+, meekly getting humbled by wet pockets and complex, powerful movements. We visited a large cave on the second day for dryness and a spectacle. Spending the morning belaying Madeline on a cool 6b+ dimensional movement between good holds. The afternoon was spent getting shut down on an 8a through the cave roof. Cool photos, though. The route had a unique style, that I have very little experience on. I took the rare opportunity to practice technical knee bars.
Day 3, fucking French fucks. Wall-to-wall blue sky. About 12 celsius. A breeze…… bliss. We drove for 15 minutes up a mountain behind Verdun (a small French village). After some route-finding troubles, we worked our way up to a beautiful crag overlooking Verdun with views stretching to the snow-dusted peaks of the Pyrenees in the distance.
The climbing, the best quality of the trip high friction in cut holds. Self-explaining beta. We saw some massive birds, possibly eagles, condors, vultures or massive buzzards (yeah, that's a broad range, but I’m more of a fur, than feathers kinda guy when it comes to the animal kingdom). In the afternoon, we returned to our steep overhang lower in the valley to continue to work the 7b+, hopefully in the dry.
Rocking up to the crag, we were greeted by 6 French people whose jackets looked
well-loved (duck-taped together). Multiple pairs of shoes were strewn around in several states of wear, and all working routes of 7c+ and up. Walking past them, I told Madeline, “I think I am the weakest person here.” A statement she didn’t believe until we bore witness to an absolute clinique of climbing strength and style. While I toiled on, a 5 foot 3 Marie was the most notable. She defined all laws of physics and logic. Floating up an 8a+ as if it were a warm-up. Leaving humbled, motivated and incredibly envious.
The 4th and final day was one of rain, sunshine, and smiles. Madeline worked some 6a and 6a+’s on top rope, and I played on a 7a+. The second lap of which resulted in my back and forearms cramping. I tried. Really fucking hard, but to no avail. It’s possible we should have taken rest days and gone on a walk; however, when you only have 4 days on a trip, you don’t burn the candle at both ends. You throw that bitch into a volcano and deal with the consequences later.
We will be returning. The focus from competition climbing to outdoor sends has solidified. I'm looking forward to putting what strength and technique I have cultivated over the last two years of indoor climbing onto the rock. Hopefully, next time, we will be better prepared, possibly better rested, and just as psyched.
Peace.
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